Don't Toss Your Old Blinds Yet: The Truth About Painting Cellular Shades

We have all stared at a window treatment that has seen better days. Maybe the crisp white fabric has yellowed from years of sun exposure, or perhaps a room redesign has left you with navy blue walls and clashing beige blinds. The question naturally follows: can you paint cellular shades instead of shelling out hundreds of dollars for new ones? The short answer is yes, you can paint them, but it is not as simple as slapping on a coat of latex wall paint. To do this successfully without ruining the mechanism or the folding action, you must use fabric-specific spray paint and apply it with extreme patience.

Cellular shades, often called honeycomb shades, are engineering marvels designed to trap air for insulation. Their ability to compress into a tight stack depends entirely on the flexibility of the fabric. Standard acrylic or latex paints harden when they dry. If you use these, your flexible shades will turn into a stiff, cracking mess that refuses to raise or lower. The only viable method involves using upholstery spray paint or fabric dye sprays designed to soak into fibers rather than sit on top of them.

Understanding the Risks Before You Start

Before dragging your shades into the garage, you need to weigh the risks. Painting window treatments is irreversible. Once you apply color, you alter the texture and the light-filtering properties of the material forever. There is a real possibility that the paint could glue the inner cells together if applied too heavily, destroying the insulation properties that make these shades desirable in the first place.

I learned this lesson the hard way a few years ago. I had a perfectly functional but hideously stained cellular shade in a guest bathroom. I thought I could use a diluted acrylic mixture and a brush to freshen it up. It was a disaster. The moisture from the paint weakened the glue holding the cells together, and once it dried, the fabric was so stiff it sounded like crunching paper every time I tried to open the blind. I ended up throwing it out. However, my second attempt using automotive fabric spray paint on a different set yielded a surprisingly decent result. The key was accepting that the finish would never look factory-perfect, but it was certainly better than the yellowed eyesore I started with.

The Difference Between Cellular and Pleated Shades

Homeowners often confuse honeycomb structures with standard pleats. If you are wondering can you paint pleated window shades, the process is actually slightly more forgiving than with cellular versions. Pleated shades consist of a single layer of fabric folded in an accordion style. Because there are no internal cells or honeycomb pockets, you don't have to worry as much about the paint gluing the interior layers together.

However, pleated shades often have small holes where the lift cords run through. Paint can gum up these cords, causing friction that eventually snaps the string. Whether you are dealing with pleated or cellular styles, the hardware and cords must be meticulously protected before a single drop of paint flies.

Step-by-Step: How to Paint Cellular Shades

If you are determined to extend the life of your current window treatments, proper preparation is the only way to get a result you can live with. You will need fabric spray paint (brands like Simply Spray or Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric work well), painter's tape, and a large, well-ventilated workspace.

1. Deep Clean the Fabric

Paint will not adhere to dust. Cellular shades are notorious dust magnets, trapping particles inside their hollow tubes. Remove the shades from the window brackets. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to gently sweep across the fabric. If there are grease spots, spot clean them with a mild detergent and let them dry completely. If you paint over dust, the surface will feel like sandpaper and the color will flake off.

2. Mask the Hardware

The headrail (the top metal part) and the bottom rail usually don't need to be painted unless you want a monochromatic look. If you get paint inside the headrail mechanism, you will ruin the clutch or spring system. Tape off the top and bottom rails completely. More importantly, find the lift cords. If possible, tape over the exposed parts of the string. If the paint hardens on the string, it will not spool correctly.

3. Application Strategy

Hang the shade up if possible, or lay it flat on a drop cloth fully extended. Shake your can of fabric spray paint vigorously. Hold the can about 6 to 8 inches away from the fabric. The goal is to mist the color on, not soak it. Use long, sweeping motions that start and end off the edge of the shade to avoid hot spots of concentrated color.

Do not try to get full coverage in one pass. It is better to do three light coats than one heavy coat. Heavy coats soak through the fabric and can cause the pleats to lose their crisp edge. If you are changing the color drastically (like going from white to dark gray), be aware that the original color might still show through when the sun hits the window directly. This can create a heathered or textured look, which isn't necessarily bad, but it won't look like a solid block of vinyl.

4. The Drying Phase

This is where most DIYers fail. You cannot simply let the shade dry in the fully extended position without checking it, nor can you compress it. If you compress it while wet, it will glue shut. If you leave it fully extended for too long with heavy paint, the pleats might relax, and the shade won't stack neatly when you try to raise it later.

Let the shade dry while fully extended for about 20 minutes. Then, gently raise the shade a few inches and lower it back down to ensure the pleats are remembering their memory. Repeat this process as it dries. You want the fabric to remain flexible. If you feel any tackiness, do not raise the shade fully.

Managing Expectations regarding Light Filtering

Painting your shades will alter how light enters the room. A translucent, light-filtering shade might become semi-opaque after painting. The paint fills the microscopic gaps in the weave of the spun-lace polyester. If you are hoping to turn standard shades into blackout shades, paint can help, but it usually results in a patchy light-blocking effect rather than total darkness. For blackout needs, you are generally better off buying a liner or new shades.

When to Replace Instead of Paint

While knowing how to paint cellular shades can save you money, there are times when the effort isn't worth the reward. If the fabric is fraying at the edges, paint won't fix it; it will just highlight the damage. If the internal glue lines of the honeycomb structure are failing (causing the cells to separate), the weight of the paint might accelerate the delamination. This project is best reserved for shades that are mechanically sound but cosmetically ugly. If the mechanism is broken or the fabric is tearing, treat yourself to a replacement.

FAQ

Can I use regular spray paint on my blinds?
No, regular spray paint is designed for rigid surfaces like plastic or metal. It will cause the fabric to become brittle and crack when the shade is raised or lowered. Always use a spray paint specifically formulated for vinyl or fabric upholstery.

Will painting the shades ruin the insulation value?
It is possible. The air pockets in cellular shades provide insulation, but if the paint clogs the fabric weave significantly, it can alter the thermal properties. However, a light coat of fabric spray generally has a negligible effect on the overall R-value of the window treatment.

How long does the paint last on the fabric?
If you use high-quality fabric spray and don't raise the blinds up and down aggressively every single day, the finish can last for several years. However, fading may occur faster than with factory-dyed fabric since the paint sits on the surface rather than permeating the core of the fibers.